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An Autumn in Vienna

Eytan (BA English with Creative Writing) spent the Autumn term at the University of Vienna and writes below about his time abroad.


I’ve just spent the last term studying at the University of Vienna, in Austria. Vienna is a beautiful city; though this may seem a platitude, the intensity of its beauty is remarkable – it’s an extraordinary city simply to walk around and exist in. This applies to the city as a whole, but also in particular to the university; entering the main building for classes, one is surrounded by history – a wrong turn takes you up a staircase with a plaque remembering a philosophy professor who was assassinated there a hundred years ago. I spent a lot of time working in the arcaded courtyard – a sort of Valhalla in the middle of the building, with a huge tree and plenty of deck chairs, ringed by busts of past professors, including some famous names. 

What was wonderful about Vienna was the diversity of interests available; even though my mediocre German precluded me from certain spaces, there was still a vibrant intellectual culture available to English speakers. For instance, the Nonstop Kino programme is relatively cheap and offers access to all films at more than a dozen cinemas – I only learned after coming here that Vienna is home to some of the most impressive film archives in the world. In my time here, I’ve been able to see very rare avant-garde films, international and popular films, plenty of classics, all with a single subscription, and in beautiful film halls: the Gartenbaukino here has been described by a famous director as “the most beautiful cinema in the world”, while the Historic Hall in the Metro Kinokulturhaus is beautifully ornate; closer to a theatre hall than a cinema. Vienna’s imperial, opulent past is tangible in the city, especially in the central district, the Innerestadt; even supermarkets sometimes have golden glosses or marble busts. Likewise, as regards diversity of pursuits, the University offers an exceptionally diverse range of modules – I was able to explore topics and possibilities that were entirely novel to me. 

I don’t do well at keeping to routines; however, I tended to go to Cafes or galleries during the day, or parks as it tended to get warmer, followed by classes and often a cinema in the evening. Though Vienna can be quite an expensive city, there are many benefits to being there for an extended period: for instance, the Art History Museum, probably the most famous in Vienna, has an annual pass that costs barely more than a single-entry ticket. There are also free events on often, and one can find newsletters online that track events each weekend in detail, and there are many public spaces where one can sit and relax freely, especially in the warmth of Spring and Summer. 

A challenge I faced was simply coming to terms with the length of time for which I’d be there and allowing myself to relax during it. A single term is a strange period of time – it is long enough to be meaningful, but short enough that it can be difficult to feel grounded or as though anything meaningful can happen. One has to balance being a tourist and being a student with responsibilities. I felt quite a bit of pressure to make the most of my time, which ironically ended in not always doing as much as I wished; one regret that I have is not having travelled much outside of Vienna during my time here. It can also bring about some ambiguity and uncertainty with relationships back home – it is a significant period to be away, but not ultimately terribly long, and you know you will be back. With all these concerns in mind, it can be difficult to be present while abroad and simply to relax. I tried to find various strategies for managing this, some of which were more successful than others; I think it’s important not to put much pressure on yourself whilst being abroad, and to allow that what will happen will happen. Existing in a different place is in itself a wonderful experience, and no matter how little you might feel you’re doing, you will naturally learn and experience a great deal. I feel very fortunate that I was able to spend this time in Vienna, and I will return to Goldsmiths not only with a much broader outlook on the various academic and artistic avenues that were made apparent to me here, but also much more at ease with myself.